Thursday 28 August 2014

smells of nostalgia

marinid tombs

If you walk up to the top of the hill supporting the Marinid Tombs, you will find yourself at one of my favourite spots in Fes. Faced with some cracking views, visit as the sun sets. Don't stay too late though; the area attracts some characters come nightfall.
We met two boys on our way up, who told us to "broaden our minds," when we refused their invitation for a drink. As ridiculous as this was, it just happens all too often to girls the world over. Boys who do this aren't fooling anyone; there is no respect left for people who use insults in response to rejection.

We managed to get to the top of the hill without further harassment, and walked into the remains of a rather enormous tomb left by the Marinids, a structure maybe two or three stories high and pretty spacious. Whilst I was stood inside imagining what kind of superstar this tomb commemorated, Lindz and I minding our own business really, or you know, the Marinids' business, when we sensed that we were being watched.

As it turned out, an older teenage boy was inside the tomb too, halfway up the wall, making his presence known. A bit confused, but impressed by his Spiderman skills, we let him do his thing. He's the one in the top picture, on top of the world...

volubilis AKA walili

An hour's drive from Fes lie the Roman remains of the ancient city of Volubilis. Standing alone amongst golden fields, blue mountains and clouds that hang like a ceiling, the city may be gone, but the drama is still here.
Volubilis was actually the first Roman settlement in Morocco, and Morocco's first capital city. It is clear from the layout what a lot of the spaces were designed for: baths, an olive oil press, a sacrificing stage. Others, I was told were: the courts of law, the temple of the gods Jupiter, Juno and Minerva.

Efforts have been made to restore parts of the site; columns filled in with brick to keep them standing. It's fun to construct the spaces in your head and imagine what life might have been like in those sophisticated but merciless times.

finding food in fes

If you hadn't already guessed, cheap tagine can get tiresome fast. If you're thinking of coming to Fes on a budget, that's fine, it can work. But if you pay a bit more for the food, it will probably (surprise!) taste better. 

The Ruined Garden Cafe
A delightful treasure at the end of what can only be described as an endless tunnel of teasing signs. This place is run by Australians, who, using local foods, make not-so-traditional dishes to suit a more western clientele. Our tastebuds were grateful.

Terrace Cafe
A beautiful place to eat right by Bab Boujloud, this one was still cheap but tasty! They make really good fish and chips. So good, that I had to escape the terrace one evening as a hungry cat came sniffing it out. Don't worry though, it got my leftovers...

realities of life: conversations

There are many things that you can only learn through conversation.


Wednesday 27 August 2014

cultural capital of morocco

Known as the cultural capital of Morocco, there are many architectural delights to discover across the medinas.

Medersa
One of a few in the city, this medersa is still in use today by students of Islamic philosophy. Quranic inscriptions are carved into almost everything in sight. Apparently the detailing has survived all these years thanks to the egg white formula applied over the plaster. How's that for low maintenance design.


Synagogue
Found within the Jewish Quarter of the city, which is now largely out of use and in a state of disrepair, this synagogue is open for visiting.


Shrine of Moulay Idriss Junior
If I hadn't mentioned already, Moroccan religious sites don't tend to be open to non-Muslims. This isn't a typical custom of a lot of Islamic sites, however it does seem to be in Morocco. 

So, here are the behind-the-scenes images of Moulay Idriss II's shrine, currently under renovation, just for you.

discovering fes

When travelling, it is always important to let your feet do the walking...

Muslim Cemetery 
Neglected and crowded, but as a result, beautiful.

Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts
A luxurious example of great carpentry itself, this museum tells history through craft. Walk around and admire the cedar woodwork and the enormous weighing scales on the ground floor, reminiscent of the trading hall that once was. The rooftop is an ideal place to listen to the calls to prayer, staggered and harmonious. If you place your head into the narrow openings that frame surrounding city views, it is all the more echoey.

Pottery Shop
Walk in and feast your eyes! Morroco may have made me sick of tagine, but never ceramics.

Tuesday 26 August 2014

dar el yasmine

The deserted walk to the hostel at dawn didn't confirm the idea that I wanted, that somehow Fes would be different, would be kinder than Marrakech. But first impressions, as we all know, can be wrong. Especially through sleep-depraved eyes.
Morrocan hospitality had not failed us yet; Dar El Yasmine didn't disappoint. The staff were accommodating, rooms traditionally decorated, breakfasts glorious, and it was a great place to meet other travellers and share stories.

Hangout on the roof terrace for high-in-the-sky views. Dars in this part of town are designed quite tall and compact, the light that eventually reaches the ground floor creates an atmospheric shadiness, so take your reading book to the roof.

Saturday 23 August 2014

ma'asalama kesh


travel sick?

Image courtesy of Lindsay Oldham


There is a point in the story where you do get fed up. The first enthusiastic dive into the pool of a new culture is eventually met with a certain emptiness. Is this what travel sickness is?

Thursday 21 August 2014

temples in town

Religious temples inhabit every other street. Historically, Marrakech has been occupied by a variety of different rulers and sets of beliefs, each adding their own architectural mark, their symbol in the sky. 

I like the way this photo captures the closeness of these places of worship. It should remind us that we can all get along and live together in peace, not in the disharmony that manifests itself in the headlines of today. Can't we all be men and women of understanding?